Resources
These resources are being built up by the topics and workshops from our meetings and by recommendations from our members of sources, products and information, including Apps, which they find useful.
Australian Natives that grow in my Bungendore garden’ read the notes from Joan’s talk on March 2022. Plant List
Propagation
You can propagate plants from cuttings or by division. When propagating, be sure that you
• Divide the plants under hygienic conditions with clean tools and hands.
• Choose healthy and vigorous plant material for propagation.
• Knock the plant out of its pot, and free the roots of surplus soil.
• Pull the plants gently apart, and single out each with separate stem, leaf or crown.
• Plot each division as a different plant in a suitably sized pot using a good potting soil
How to Propagate Plants from Cuttings
There are 2 main methods of propagating – taking cuttings and dividing plants. This guide refers to taking cuttings.
Here’s how to take a softwood stem cutting:
• Cut a 4- to 5-inch-long (10 to 12 cm) stem (or side shoot) just below a leaf, and remove all but two or three leaves at the top.
• Make sure you use a sharp knife to minimise damage.
• Dip the cut end into rooting hormone.
• Rooting hormone is a powder or liquid containing growth hormones that stimulate root growth on cuttings. Some also contain a fungicide to control root rot. Local nurseries or garden centres carry the product.
• Insert the cutting into a box or container, filled with about 3 inches (8 cm) of moistened pure builder’s sand, vermiculite, or perlite.
• The ideal container should have drainage holes.
• Slip the container into a self-sealing plastic bag.
• Prop up the bag with something like toothpicks or short twigs so that the plastic doesn’t touch the leaves. Seal the bag to minimise water loss, but open it occasionally to let in fresh air.
• Place the covered container in indirect light.
• Easy-to root perennials include begonia, candytuft, chrysanthemum, carnations or pinks (Dianthus), geraniums (Pelargonium), penstemon, phlox, sage, sedum. Woody plants that you can root include bougainvillea, fuchsia, gardenia, heather, honeysuckle, ivy, pyracantha, star jasmine, and willow.
• When the cuttings are well rooted (4 to 8 weeks, for most plants) and are putting on new growth, transplant them into individual containers of potting soil.
• As they continue to grow, gradually expose them to more light. When the plants are well established in the pots and continue to put on top growth, harden them off (acclimate them to your weather conditions) and plant them in their permanent garden location.
Geraniums, succulents, cacti. can be propagated easily by simply sticking them in a pot.
Hardwood cuttings can be taken in the winter when the plants have lost their leaves ie...roses , deciduous shrubs.
There are no guarantees, so always take more cuttings than you need ,and you might be surprised.
Hardwood cuttings can be taken in the winter when the plants have lost their leaves ie...roses , deciduous shrubs.
Propagation of plants by division: What can you divide, examples and what to do.
CLUMPS
Plants which grow in clumps and produce masses of stems at ground level.
Most of the herbaceous perennials, aster, chrysanthemum, russelia,catmint, brachysome, agapanthus, blue fescue grass, mondo grass, liriope, daylilies, rudbeckia, clumping bamboo, hostas and bromeliads.
Separate clumps into individual plants.
RHIZOMES
Rhizomes, are stems that grow horizontally underground and form buds on the stem which grow roots.
Grasses: lomandra, dianella (flax lily) bamboo.
Flowering: I rises, cannas, lily of the valley, and sympodial orchids.
Edible : asparagus, hops, rhubarb, ginger, turmeric, and lotus.
The thick root stem s can be divided into sections that contain a bud or root.
STOLONS(Runners)
Stolons, or runners, can occur at soil level or underground. They have thin stems with roots at intervals.
Strawberries, Mint, Spider plant, Lilacs and forsythia.
Cut underground runners between the main plant and the new plants .For surface runners, cut stems about 2cm each side of the roots plant in in ground or pots.
BULBS, CORMS AND TUBERS
These all store nutrients that feed the flowers and foliage. When flowering has finished, the bulb, corm or tuber builds up nutrients for the following season from the leaves, which is why it is important to leave the leaves to die. So don’t do anything until this happens.
They do not have to be lifted each year; they can stay in the ground and multiply until you want to thin and or divide them.
Bulbs are layered and have a flat base there roots and offsets (daughter bulbs) grow.
Tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, along with onions, shallots, chives and leeks.
Bulbs can be lifted and separated once leaves have died.
Corms have a solid stem tissue and like bulbs have a flat base where the roots grow and new corms grow for next season.
Crocuses, gladioli and freesias.
A corm only grows for one season but produces new corms at its base and these can be divided flowering and then dies.
Tubers are modified stems with growing points that thicken each year.
Crocuses, gladioli and freesias.
Tubers can be lifted and the tuberous stems divided.
Seed Saving the Basics
Use the healthiest plants, vegetables, to save seeds from
Fruit and vegetables used for seed saving should be healthy and really ripe.
Once seeds have been extracted, no matter which method is used they should be spread on e.g. a plate or tray for a couple of weeks to ensure they are completely dry
Once completely dry, store them in a jar, envelope, or plastic zip lock bag
Label with name of fruit, flower or vegetable and date
Store in a cool dark place for use the following season
Store in a cold place – cool store or refrigerator – if you want to keep them longer
Types of Seed sand How to Save
The easiest – Seeds in pods
The easiest vegetables to save seed from are those that grow in a pod .
• Peas
• Beans,
• Broad beans
• sweet peas.
Simply leave pods on the plant until they are completely dry – the colour of a paper bag. Then you harvest t hem, simply open the pos and remove the seeds. Peas and beans can be used for sowing for next season or next season, or as a pulse like lentils and chickpeas, a source of vegetable protein.
How to save ‘pulpy’ seeds – Using Fermentation
Seeds of pulpy vegetables and fruits, such as tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), require a fermentation process that mimics the natural rotting that occurs in nature. As the seeds ferment, the pulp separates, leaving behind clean seeds that are suitable for saving.
• Tomatoes
• Cucumber
• Zucchini
• Pumpkin
• Melons
Guide to saving seeds using fermentation
1. Cut open a fruit or vegetable and scoop out its seeds and attached pulp with a spoon. Place the seeds in a tall glass or jar.
2. Fill the glass or jar with water so the seeds and pulp are submerged to a depth of 2 or more inches. Set the glass or jar in a room-temperature location to ferment.
3. Skim the mold and pulp from the top of the water in the glass or jar every one to three days. Add water to the container to replace the amount skimmed. Repeat the skimming process each time mold forms during a seven- to 10-day period, or until most of the pulp and non-viable seeds have floated to the surface and only viable seeds remain at the container's bottom.
4. Pour the container's contents through a mesh strainer. Rinse all remaining pulp from the seeds with clear water.
5 .Spread the seeds in a single layer on a sheet of wax paper. Allow the seeds to dry completely in a warm, well-ventilated location, which may take about one week. Stir the seeds daily so all their sides dry evenly.
Plants that Flower and ‘Go to Seen’
Saving seeds from vegetables that have ‘gone to seed’ – i.e. flowered and produced seed. There can be quite a time between the flowering and the production of seed. When the plant flowers, it is then pollinated and then a seed produced
This includes
• Parsley
• Carrot , parsnip and beetroot
• Rocket
• Celery
• Onions
Let the plant ‘die off; so the sterns and flowers are brown and dry. Then separate the seeds from the plant, spread them on a plate to dry out for a couple of weeks
Guide to making your own seed envelope
1. Begin with a square piece of paper. Fold it diagonally into a triangle and position so the longest side is facing you.
2. Fold the bottom right corner up to meet the centre of the opposite side so there is a straight edge along the top.
3. Repeat with the bottom left corner, again meeting the opposite side. Both corners should line up across the top edge.
4. Tuck the first of the two triangles at the top into the triangular pocket created by making the previous fold in step 3.
5. You will see that you now have an envelope that you can fill with seeds. Once filled, close by tucking the remaining top triangle into the same fold as in step
A
Acacia buxifolia
Acacia dealbata
Acacia decurrens
Acacia genistifolia
Acacia gunnii
Acacia mearnsii
Acacia melanoxylon
Acacia parramattensis
Acacia rubida
Acaena novae-zelandiae
Acaena ovina
Ajuga australis
Allocasuarina littoralis
Alternanthera denticulata
Alternanthera sp
Amphibromus nervosus
Amyema miquelii
Amyema pendula
Anthosachne scaber
Aphanes ? australiana
Aristida ramosa
Arthropodium sp.
Asperula conferta
Astroloma humifusum
Astrotricha ledifolia
Austrodanthonia carphoides
Austrodanthonia laevis
Austrodanthonia sp.
Austrodanthonia sp.1
Austrodanthonia sp2
Austrostipa bigeniculata
Austrostipa densiflora
Austrostipa scabra ssp falcata
B
Billardiera scandens
Bossiaea buxifolia
Bossiaea prostrata
Bothriochloa macra
Brachyloma daphnoides
Brachyscome rigidula
Bulbine bulbosa
C
Calocephalus citreus
Calotis anthemoides
Calotis scabiosifolia var integrifolia
Carex appressa
Carex breviculmis
Carex inversa
Cassia longifolia
Cassinia aculeata
Cassinia arcuata
Cassinia longifolia
Cassinia quinquefaria
Cassytha sp.
Centipeda cunninghamii
Chamaesyce drummondii
Cheilanthes austrotenuifolia
Cheilanthes sp.
Chloris truncata
Chrysocephalum apiculatum
Chrysocephalum apiculatum
Chrysocephalum apiculatum (silver & green forms)
Chrysocephalum apiculatum (silver)
Chrysocephalum semipapposum
Clematis leptophylla
Comesperma ericinum
Convolvulus angustissimus
Convolvulus erubescens
Craspedia variabilis
Cryptandra amara
Cryptandra amara var. longiflora
Cymbonotus lawsonianus
Cynoglossum australe
Cynoglossum suaveolens
D
Damasonium minus
Daucus glochidiatus
Daviesia genistifolia
Daviesia mimosoides
Desmodium gunnii
Desmodium varians
Dianella longifolia
Dianella revoluta
Dichelachne crinita
Dichelachne sp.
Dichelachne sp.
Dichelachne sp.1
Dichelachne sp.2
Dichondra repens
Dillwynia sericea
Diuris sp.
Diuris sulphurea
Dodonaea viscosa ssp. angustissima
Drosera peltata
Drosera sp.
E
Echinopogon sp.
Einadia nutans
Eleocharis acuta
Elymus scaber
Enneapogon nigricans
Epilobium sp.
Eragrostis benthamii
Eragrostis trachycarpa
Eriochilus cucullatus
Eryngium ovinum
Eryngium rostratum
Eucalyptus bridgesiana
Eucalyptus dives
Eucalyptus dives x pauciflora
Eucalyptus macrorhyncha (juvenile)
Eucalyptus mannifera
Eucalyptus melliodora
Eucalyptus pauciflora
Eucalyptus polyanthemos
Eucalyptus rossii
Eucalyptus rubida
Eucalyptus viminalis
Euchiton involucratus
Exocarpos cupressiformis
F
Fimbristylis ? dichotoma
G
Galium gaudichaudii
Geranium solanderi
Geranium sp.
Glycine clandestina
Glycine tabacina
Gompholobium huegelii
Gonocarpus tetragynus
Goodenia hederacea
Goodenia hederaceae
Goodenia pinnatifida
Gratiola peruviana
Greenhood rosettes
H
Haloragis heterophylla
Hardenbergia violacea
Helichrysum rutidolepis
Helichrysum scorpioides
Helichrysum semipapposum
Hemarthria uncinata
Hibbertia obtusifolia
Hovea heterophylla
Hydrocotyle laxiflora
Hydrocotyle tripartita
Hymenochilus muticus
Hypericum gramineum
Hypoxis hygrometrica
I
Indigofera australis
Isotoma fluviatilis
J
Joycea pallida
Juncus fockei
Juncus sp.
Juncus sp. (3)
K
Kunzea ericoides
Kunzea parvifolia
L
Lachnagrostis filiformis
Laxmannia gracilis
Lepidosperma laterale
Leptorhynchos squamatus
Leptospermum multicaule
Leptospermum myrtifolium
Leptospermum myrtifolium
Leucochrysum albicans ssp albicans var tricolor
Leucochrysum albicans ssp albicans var tricolor
Leucochrysum albicans var. tricolor
Linum marginale
Lissanthe strigosa
Lomandra ? longifolia
Lomandra bracteata
Lomandra filiformis ssp coriacea
Lomandra filiformis ssp. filiformis
Lomandra filiformis var. coriacea
Lomandra longifolia
L
Lomandra multiflora
Luzula densiflora
Luzula sp. (? flaccida)
Lythrum hyssopifolia
M
Melichrus urceolatus
Microlaena stipoides
Microtis ? unifolia
Microtis sp.
Myriophyllum sp.
O
Olearia sp. (low, suckering)
Opercularia hispida
Oreomyrrhis eriopoda
Ottelia ovalifolia
P
Panicum effusum
Persicaria prostrata
Persoonia sp.
Pimelea curviflora
Pimelea glauca
Pimelea sp.
Pimelia ?linifolia
Plantago sp.
Plantago varia
Poa labillardieri
Poa meionectes
Poa sieberiana
Podolepis jaceoides
Pomaderris eriocephala
Poranthera microphylla
Potamogeton sp.
Potamogeton tricarinatus
Pteridium esculentum
Pultenaea microphylla
Pultenaea subspicata
R
Ranunculus lappaceus
Rubus parvifolius
Rumex brownii
Rytidosperma laeve
Rytidosperma pallidum
Rytidosperma sp.
S
Schoenus apogon
Scleranthus biflorus
Senecio quadridentatus
Senecio sp.
Solanum linearifolium
Solenogyne dominii
Stackhousia monogyna
Stylidium graminifolium
T
Thelymitra peniculata
Thelymitra sp
Themeda australis
Themeda australis
Themeda triandra
Thysanotus patersonii
Tricoryne elatior
Triptilodiscus pigmaeus
V
Velleia paradoxa
Veronica calycina
Veronica perfoliata
Vittadinia cuneata
Vittadinia gracilis
Vittadinia muelleri
W
Wahlenbergia ? multicaulis
Wahlenbergia communis
Wahlenbergia gracilis
Wahlenbergia luteola
Wahlenbergia sp (small flower)
Wahlenbergia stricta
Wurmbea dioica
X
Xerochrysum viscosum
The Gundaroo Tiller website is Walworth a sign up form for Joyce’s Monthly Guides at the b9tt9m f each 0agel This is focussed on our region.
The no-dig garden consists of 8 10cm (4”) layers – apart from compost and manure which should be 5cm (2”).
Remember to water each layer thoroughly as you go.
Ingredients
Non Fertilizer
Cardboard/newspaper
Green weeds or grass clippings with no seeds or runners
Straw
Lucerne
Compost
Fertilier
Blood and bone
Lime
The Layers
First layer is cardboard and/or newspaper, followed by a dressing of blood and bone. Next, a layer of green weeds or grass clippings with no seeds or runners and apply lime. Number three is dry deciduous leaves or straw, followed by more blood and bone. The fourth layer is sheep manure, but you could use cow manure. Lay it on 5cm (2”) thick followed by some lime.
Layer five is lucerne and blood and bone. Layer six is more sheep or cow manure – laid 5cm (2”) thick and lime. Layer seven – more lucerne and blood and bone. And layer number eight is compost -just like icing on the cake.
This link will take you to the ABC Gardening Australia website to learn more about Bulb Lasagne.
‘PlantNet‘ is an application that allows you to identify plants simply by photographing them with your smartphone. It is also a great citizen science project: Find out more.. Get the app for IOS and Android
‘Seek‘ by Naturalist is an app that uses the image recognition to identify pants, animals, birds, amphibians and fungi . It is particularly useful for encouraging students to learn more about what is around them as users can earn badges for identifying different types of species. Find out more. Get the app for IOS and Android .
Rose Pruning and Care Thank you to Dennis Dempsey for allowing us to use this information
Canberra Organic Garden Society(COGS) planting guide for this region. Gardenate has a good planting guide with links to plant information which is helpful.